Across the United Kingdom, a quiet revolution is unfolding in restaurants and bars as drink menus undergo subtle but significant transformations. What began with simple techniques like 'zebra striping' and 'bookending' has evolved into a sophisticated dining trend: the moderation menu.
The Rise of Moderation Menus
Gone are the days when moderating alcohol consumption meant reluctantly sipping water between drinks. Today, establishments are proactively designing experiences that cater to those seeking to reduce their alcohol intake without eliminating it entirely. The moderation menu represents a structured approach where courses alternate between traditional wine pairings and carefully crafted non-alcoholic alternatives.
This format—sometimes described as 'intermittent drinking'—typically follows a pattern: one course paired with wine, the next with an artisanal mocktail or craft soda, then back to wine, and so forth. This thoughtful curation allows diners to enjoy the ritual of pairing drinks with food while consciously managing their alcohol consumption.
Beyond Seasonal Trends
Importantly, this movement extends far beyond temporary initiatives like Dry January or Sober October. It reflects a broader cultural shift toward reduced alcohol consumption year-round. As Marica Tonucci, operational beverage manager at Big Mamma Group, observes, non-drinkers have become increasingly discerning, seeking complex flavours and textures in their alcohol-free beverages—sometimes demanding even more sophistication than traditional drinkers.
The industry has responded by moving away from uninspiring, watery alternatives. Instead, establishments now offer vibrant mocktails, gourmet sodas, and specially selected teas that stand on their own merits. Sommeliers are investing significant effort into sourcing or creating non-alcoholic options that complement dishes as effectively as—or sometimes better than—their alcoholic counterparts.
Pioneering Establishments Leading the Way
Several forward-thinking restaurants across London are at the forefront of this trend. In Shoreditch, Counter 71 has developed a moderation menu offering five pours that alternate between wine and drinks containing less than 0.5% alcohol. Head Sommelier Harry Cooper was inspired to create this menu due to personal connections: his wife has alcohol intolerance, and a close colleague maintains sobriety.
Cooper explains that moderation menus serve as a gentle transition for those not ready to commit to completely alcohol-free dining. 'We see with a lot of guests that the promise of some wine and interesting 0% drinks works for them, especially at lunch time or midweek,' he notes, emphasising the importance of inclusivity in evolving drink trends.
Nearby, the Michelin-starred Plates, run by siblings Kirk and Keely Haworth, offers a balanced 50:50 alcohol-to-alcohol-free menu. Kirk's Lyme disease diagnosis prompted a lifestyle overhaul, leading to exploration of plant-based foods and sophisticated non-alcoholic drinks. Their creations include complex cocktails like 'Not Noir', featuring Hojicha green tea and Crossip rich berry, and 'Yuzuade' with yuzu and agave soda—options that rival their alcoholic counterparts in appeal.
Elevating the Non-Alcoholic Experience
At Raffles in The OWO (The Old War Office), the approach to non-alcoholic pairings is particularly innovative. Former head of wine Vincenzo Arnese reveals they treat soft pairings with the same seriousness as food dishes, collaborating closely with chefs rather than just bartenders. This methodology aims to create diverse flavour profiles that complement the culinary experience.
Their Temperance Pairing menu at restaurant Mauro Colagreco involves approximately ten times more preparation work than a standard tasting menu. A key challenge has been avoiding excessive sugar as a substitute for alcohol, ensuring the health-conscious ethos remains intact.
In Soho, Aulis—Simon Rogan's intimate 12-seater chef's table restaurant—showcases extraordinary dedication to non-alcoholic pairings. Using ingredients from Our Farm in the Lake District, Rogan applies culinary techniques to drink creation. One standout beverage, simply named 'Strawberry', took a month to develop and involves fermenting leftover Malwina strawberries into a Milky Oolong tea kombucha, blending with smoky Rooibos tea, layering with grape juice, and clarifying with agar. Served in a mini martini glass with yoghurt foam and herbal garnishes, it exemplifies the artistry now dedicated to alcohol-free options.
The Future of Dining and Drinking
This trend signals a fundamental change in how UK restaurants approach beverage service. As consumer preferences shift toward mindful consumption, establishments are recognising the commercial and creative opportunities in catering to this demand. The moderation menu represents more than just an alternative; it's a reimagining of the dining experience that prioritises choice, quality, and inclusivity.
With sommeliers gaining recognition for their expertise in non-alcoholic pairings and restaurants investing unprecedented effort into these offerings, the landscape of UK dining continues to evolve. Whether driven by health considerations, lifestyle changes, or simply curiosity, diners now have access to sophisticated options that make moderation both appealing and enjoyable.
