An Icy Introduction to the Arctic
I found myself shivering on a bed made of solid ice, with only the sound of my own chattering teeth and the distant howls of huskies for company. The thermometer read a steady -4°C, and to make matters worse, the zip on my sleeping bag had decided to jam. This was my reality at the Snow Hotel Kirkenes, a permanent ice and igloo hotel located in a remote part of northern Norway, right on the Russian border.
As someone who doesn't naturally gravitate towards subzero climates, I was intrigued by the growing trend of 'coolcations' – holidays that offer an escape from sweltering heat. I wanted to discover if a night at the world's most northerly snow hotel was a memorable adventure or simply a frosty folly.
Inside the Frozen Wonderland
Positioned roughly 250 miles north of the Arctic Circle, the Snow Hotel Kirkenes (pronounced shir-ken-is) boasts a dramatic setting beside a serene fjord, making it a prime location for spotting the Northern Lights. The property is a permanent home to hundreds of huskies, whose enthusiastic greetings set the scene upon arrival.
Guests have two distinct accommodation choices. There are stylish, modern cabins reminiscent of a Scandi noir series, complete with sheepskin rugs and floor-to-ceiling windows ideal for aurora watching. Then there's the snow hotel itself, a separate structure tucked beneath a mound of snow.
This frozen abode contains 20 individually themed rooms, each separated from the main corridor by nothing more than a curtain, offering little in the way of privacy. The beds are the centrepiece – massive blocks of what is likely chemically treated ice, topped with a thin mattress and a reindeer skin.
Unlike other ice hotels that melt away each spring, this one operates year-round. The complex also features two restaurants and a traditional Sami hut named Gabba, where visitors can sample reindeer and warm lingonberry juice by a fire. Daytime activities are plentiful, ranging from dog-sledding to king crab safaris.
The Reality of a Subzero Slumber
The hotel enjoys a steady stream of visitors, many of whom are passengers from the Hurtigruten coastal cruise, for which Kirkenes is the final stop. Our preparation for the night involved an afternoon tour of the snow hotel, which felt even colder than the fjord outside. A collective sense of unease fell over the group when we noticed one corridor led directly outside, with no door to bar the elements.
The main building, connected by a tunnel, houses the essential comforts: bathrooms, a luggage store, and blissful central heating. This is where you are kitted out with your bedtime gear – a sleeping bag, bedsheets, a balaclava, and knitted boots.
Once you cross back into the ice section, all creature comforts vanish. There are no wardrobes or bedside tables, only frozen blocks. We were advised to apply moisturiser in the luggage room before saying goodbye to our belongings and the sensation in our toes. One member of our group did get cold feet in the literal sense and opted for a cabin instead.
Hauling the heavy sleeping bag down the icy hallway was not a relaxing pre-bed ritual, and wriggling into it in the deep cold was a struggle. Once cocooned, with only my nose exposed, I realised I had forgotten to turn off the clinical blue light. Forced to extricate myself and hop across the ice in my stockings, I was left shattered and shivering, taking a full 30 minutes to get comfortable again. I eventually drifted off, my face nuzzled into the sleeping bag for warmth.
The Final Verdict on a Frozen Night
After the light ordeal, the room was profoundly dark and quiet. The flimsy curtain did little to disturb the peace, and I wasn't bothered by the sounds of other guests. The bed was, to my surprise, comfortable, and I slept through the night without waking, though others in our group made less-than-ideal dashes to the bathroom across the glacial floor.
So, would I do it again? No. The night was an undeniably unique experience, but once was enough. However, would I recommend you try it once if the opportunity arises? Absolutely.
I would return to the Snow Hotel Kirkenes in a heartbeat for the magic that surrounds it – the husky sledding, the snowmobiling, and the chase for the Northern Lights. But on my next visit, I'll be booking one of the warm cabins.
Ice rooms at the Snow Hotel, inclusive of breakfast and dinner, start from £275 per person per night; Gamme cabins start from £280 per person per night.
