Is there a more exhilarating moment for a traveller than when a train bursts out of a tunnel into daylight? That sudden flood of light and rush of air captures the essence of rail adventures. With train travel on the rise—2025 saw a 7% increase in UK rail journeys and growing European interest—trains are reclaiming their status as a preferred mode of transport. In late December, I embarked on a slow-train odyssey across the historic railways of the Swiss Alps and Italian lakes, covering roughly 1,800 miles through five countries, almost entirely on scenic daytime routes.
The Ease of Cross-Border Rail Travel
From the outset, this type of train travel proves remarkably straightforward, albeit slightly disorienting. Drifting through stations, across platforms, and over borders, it's astonishing to traverse three countries—the UK, France, and Switzerland—in less than a day. The hassle of airport security, with its sweaty finger scans, is replaced by polite immigration checks. One officer, accompanied by a German shepherd, remarked on my frequent travels with a wry smile, to which I quipped "legally" for good measure.
Scenic Shifts Through France and Switzerland
As the French countryside blurs into Swiss hills under a thin veil of wintry light, the landscape transforms. Fields dotted with bare trees seem suspended in a mid-freeze, bracing for colder days ahead. Arriving in Zurich offers the first glimpse of milky Alpine peaks, setting the stage for the journey's visual feast. The thrill lies in the steadily shifting scenes, the rise and fall of terrain, all unfolding like a freshly baked loaf of bread.
Historic Routes and Alpine Wonders
The next morning brings crisp blue skies for an ascent via the Matterhorn Gotthard railway, a historic route opened in 1882 that revolutionised European travel by cutting through inhospitable mountains. Opting for the IR46 train, we avoid the Gotthard base tunnel to savour the beauty. In summer, a pricier tourist train follows this same path, famously depicted by JMW Turner and praised by Goethe, who wrote of submitting to nature here. Today, it's the cafe car's eye-watering Swiss coffee prices that prompt a revision: submit to inflation instead.
With phones charging—adhering to slow-train etiquette—we spend three hours gazing out at vertiginous gorges, frothing rivers, and snow-capped peaks. The tracks navigate the mythic Alps via Gotthard "spirals," corkscrew paths inside mountains for a steady climb. At Göschenen, a lunch stop involves a steep rack-and-pinion ride to Andermatt, now a chic ski retreat. Thick snow and dark Alpine stone create a monochrome scene, enhanced by a comforting meal at Biselli and Swiss Ticino red wine, softening the day's creeping mist.
Crossing into Italy and Lake Como
Italy soon emerges with clear skies and terracotta towns, marking another border crossing and a welcome drop in cappuccino prices from €5 to €2. Skimming ice-blue Lake Lugano, we reach Lake Como by dusk. A leisurely passeggiata around the lake, free from high-season crowds, reveals ornate street lamps like washed-up pearls and a funicular to Brunate glowing with golden lights. It's a serene vision of Como, hard to imagine otherwise.
Turin: An Underappreciated Metropolis
Embracing slow-train transience, we pack quickly and head to Turin, bypassing Milan for this underrated city. Stepping off at Torino Porta Susa, we find a vibrant student hub trapped in a temporal ragu: 1920s art deco neon on baroque buildings housing vintage shops run by 1990s-styled students. This eclectic mix thrives under 18km of porticos lined with boutiques and historic cafes. An aperitivo at Caffè Università, with its frayed edges and daily buffet, caps the first night.
Cultural Gems and Culinary Delights
Turin's museums, many free with the Torino card, beckon. The Mole Antonelliana's spire houses the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, blending neoclassicism with an Alien xenomorph egg. The Lingotto complex repurposes a Fiat test track into La Pista 500, a panoramic garden with art installations—proof Turin evolves history. For dinner, Osteria Rabezzana offers Piedmontese classics like brasato al barolo and agnolotti del plin in a convivial, family-run setting.
Homeward Bound
The journey concludes with a 7.36 TGV to Paris, offering final glimpses of the Italian Alps. Slumped on the Eurostar, surrounded by clinking wine bottles and crushed panettone, we reluctantly enter the Channel tunnel, leaving the light behind. This slow-train adventure highlights the joys of scenic rail travel, blending ease, culture, and breathtaking landscapes.
Transport provided by Interrail; passes for seven days within one month cost £255 for youths, £339 for adults, £305 for seniors. Return Eurostar from London to Paris starts from £78. Accommodation included The Home Hotel Zurich, Hilton Lake Como, NH Collection Torino Piazza Carlina, and 25hours Terminus Nord in Paris.
