A Weekend in Preston: Discovering the UK's Rainiest City
Welcome to another instalment of B-List Britain, the exclusive Metro Travel series where award-winning author Ben Aitken, known for his book Shitty Breaks, ventures into unsung British cities to uncover their quiet brilliance. This week, the journey takes us to Preston, a Lancashire city that might be famous for its rainfall but holds far more than just damp weather.
Putting Preston in Perspective
Let's situate Preston geographically. Nestled in Lancashire, it lies within easy reach of Manchester, Liverpool, and Blackpool, with the River Ribble flowing to the south and the Forest of Bowland to the east. The Lake District is just an hour's drive north, assuming a steady pace of 40mph. But beyond its location, Preston boasts a rich tapestry of history and culture. It has earned national titles for having the least sun and most rain in the UK, yet it's also a birthplace of the Industrial Revolution. The city is renowned for producing cricket legend Andrew Flintoff and the humble butter pie, though not necessarily in that order of importance.
Cultural Highlights and Hidden Treasures
Upon arriving at the railway station, my first stop was The Harris, Preston's cultural centrepiece, which recently reopened after a significant refurbishment. This neoclassical building, dating back to 1893, serves as a museum, gallery, and library all in one. Its impressive facade features a pediment adorned with stone carvings of philosophical giants like Zarathustra, Aristotle, and Plato, adding a touch of intellectual grandeur to the cityscape.
Next, I couldn't resist visiting Preston Bus Station, a unique 1960s structure that resembles a battleship with its sweeping concrete balconies. It's the kind of place where you might find yourself hoping your bus is delayed, just to soak in the architectural marvel—though that sentiment might fade after fifteen minutes of waiting. Nearby, in front of Preston's indoor market, stands a delightful sculpture of Wallace and Gromit, created by local animator Nick Park. Erected in 2021, it features Gromit reading a newspaper on a bench, with Wallace giving a cheerful thumbs-up. It's a charming addition that invites visitors to sit alongside Gromit and share in the moment.
Accommodation and Evening Adventures
My stay was at the Winckley Stays Hotel, located just off Winckley Square, a stunning Georgian square that rivals any in the country. My room was a true gem—elegant yet approachable, much like the broadcaster Claudia Winkleman. For comparison, if Keir Starmer were a hotel room, he'd be a Travelodge, but that's another story.
That evening, after enjoying a meal at Roasta, a backstreet Cantonese restaurant praised by Financial Times critic Jay Rayner, I ventured to Club 3000 Bingo on New Hall Lane. The vast hall felt like it could host a massive speed dating event, with enough space for all of East Lancashire to mingle. A friendly neighbour across the aisle kindly explained the bingo coupons to me, and during a break, she showed off the prizes—a mountain of Bisto gravy boats, which, while practical, were a tad underwhelming.
Later, I visited Plug and Taps, a cosy craft beer bar where I sipped a pint from Northern Monk. The walls were adorned with artworks, including a black-and-white photo of footballer Tom Finney making a tackle on a waterlogged pitch. Known as the Preston Plumber, Finney was a legend who fought in WWII, never received a booking, and retired at 38 due to a groin injury—a detail I could sadly relate to.
Exploring the Outdoors and Historical Sites
The next morning, I breakfasted at Rise, indulging in Nutella French Toast with a side of halloumi—no judgments, please. Then, I hired an e-bike near the station to tackle The Guild Wheel, a 20-mile cycle and walkway encircling the city. Starting at Avenham Park, one of the UK's most beautiful parks, I pedalled along a riverside avenue to Walton Bridge, the site of Oliver Cromwell's decisive victory in the Battle of Preston in 1648, which effectively ended the English Civil War.
Continuing along The Wheel, I reached Brockholes, a nature reserve spanning two hundred acres with hides and trails for spotting ospreys, otters, bitterns, and lapwings. Rare sightings have occurred here, such as a shaggy-crested belted kingfisher that strayed from the Caribbean to Preston, likely diverted by a storm—or perhaps just seeking a change of scenery.
A Final Taste of Preston
As time grew short, I cycled to the top of Boilton Wood and asked for directions to the train station. A walker suggested a route through the Moor Nook estate, warning it might be tricky, but I navigated it without issue and stumbled upon a chippy on Pope Lane. I couldn't resist a chip barmcake for just £2.80—it was absolutely lush and, pound for pound, one of the best meals I'd had in months.
Unfortunately, my indulgence meant I missed my train by about forty-five seconds. Serves me right for lingering too long at that nature reserve. But as I reflect on my weekend, Preston proved to be a city of surprises, from its cultural landmarks to its hearty food, all wrapped up in a rainy but welcoming package.
Ben Aitken is the author of Shitty Breaks: A Celebration of Unsung Cities. Next week, the series heads to Wolverhampton for more explorations of Britain's hidden gems.
