For a food writer, improving the national quality of spag bol is high stakes, so I was eager to find a clear winner. I assembled a team of six reviewers, and we tasted 26 cans of diced, chopped or pulped tomato. We tried them all blind, twice: straight but heated through, and cooked into a simple sauce.
The Surprising Results
The first results were hard to believe – like being told you shouldn't rinse your dishes before putting them in the dishwasher. Every round, I kept thinking this seems to be a perfectly fine middle-range product, but exceptional products never came. Some were more enjoyable than others, but the margins were tiny. When cooked, every single sauce was tasty.
Why We Tested Again
I bought several varieties of Mutti and a poorly scored brand to compare. The results were unextraordinary. None was markedly superior, and none were terrible. The test affirmed that the brand of tinned tomatoes has very little influence on a sauce.
Overall Findings
There are differences in acidity, ripeness, and how tomatoes are cut, but the margins are small. Cheap brands may have underripe chunks or more skins, but mid-range brands can have similar issues. Italian vs Australian tomatoes showed no meaningful quality difference, though Australian ones were fruitier.
Key Takeaways
- Price vs Flavour: Little relationship; some cheap brands are fine, some expensive ones disappoint.
- Chopped vs Whole: Flavour differences disappear when cooked; texture matters for sauce thickness.
- San Marzano: Not worth the premium; no taster voted them best.
- Organic: More distinct but not necessarily better.
What I'll Buy
Villa Rossi Diced Tomatoes: Slightly sweeter, equal highest natural sugar. I'm ending my long-term relationship with Mutti for this or SPC.
SPC Diced Tomatoes: Fruity and acidic, great for quick sauces.
What I Won't Buy
Cirio Polpa Diced Tomatoes: Bitter aftertaste when uncooked.
Leggo's Australian Diced Tomatoes: Watery and fibrous.
Ardmona Diced Tomatoes: Large chunks and paw-paw-like fruitiness.
In the end, focus on seasoning and cook times. As one reviewer said of a cheap sample: 'It's a tomato. I'd eat it.'
