The legendary Studio 54 nightclub may have closed nearly four decades ago, but its iconic fashion influence continues to shape how we dress for parties today. This season, the fuzzy coats and furry stoles worn by 1970s icons like Jerry Hall and Bianca Jagger are making a spectacular comeback.
The Return of Glamorous Outerwear
As the festive party season approaches, fashion retailers are reporting significant surges in demand for shaggy, Studio 54-style coats. One of the most popular items from Marks & Spencer's recent collaboration with London label 16Arlington features a cropped, cream design with long hair and giant lapels that captures the disco era's extravagant spirit.
The trend shows no signs of slowing, with John Lewis reporting that searches for brown faux fur coats have increased by 190% compared to last year. The secondhand market is equally enthusiastic, with Depop noting a 257% rise in searches for faux fur over the past six months.
Why This Trend Captures the Moment
Julia Hobbs, senior contributing fashion features editor at British Vogue, describes these statement coats as a "one and done" solution that serves as the main element of an outfit. She personally favours wearing her colossal shaggy McQueen version with low-rise jeans or tights paired with micro shorts.
The trend has even made its way onto television screens, appearing in Netflix's romantic comedy series Nobody Wants This. Character Morgan, played by Justine Lupe, perfectly embodies the look when she wears a toffee-coloured furry jacket to a casual dinner, defending her choice with the simple explanation: "You told us to dress up. It's fashion!"
American trend forecaster Sean Monahan, who previously coined the term "normcore" in 2014, identifies this movement as "boom boom" fashion. Rooted in the glamour and excess of late-80s New York, this trend evokes imagery of champagne, cash, and carefree luxury.
Accessible Glamour for Modern Times
Unlike the original Studio 54 era when real fur dominated, today's versions primarily use shearling - a byproduct of the meat industry - or synthetic materials like polyester. The contemporary interpretation embraces tongue-in-cheek opulence with overblown proportions and unexpected colours.
London designer Charlotte Simone pioneered this trend with her fluffy coats featuring poodle-like proportions, which have been spotted on pop stars Taylor Swift and Dua Lipa. Due to overwhelming demand, her designs now release in limited drops, including upcoming pink and charcoal versions resembling giant pom-poms.
Charlotte Collins, editor-in-chief of SheerLuxe magazine, compares the Studio 54 coat phenomenon to the lipstick effect. "If you can only buy one thing, you don't want it to be a plain jumper or a pair of boring trousers, you want something dramatic," she explains.
This sentiment resonates with Queralt Ferrer, fashion director of John Lewis, who describes these coats as "an unexpected, fun element" that doesn't require purchasing an entirely new outfit.
Ultimately, these fuzzy coats serve as powerful mood enhancers during challenging times. Collins notes that "it doesn't have to cost a fortune, and it's going to make you feel glam when everything else is pretty gloomy," proving that sometimes fashion's greatest power lies in its ability to uplift spirits through pure, unapologetic glamour.