Valentino Garavani, the revered Italian fashion designer celebrated for his exquisite couture creations, has passed away at the age of 93. His career spanned more than five decades, during which he dressed some of the world's most photographed and influential women in glamorous, show-stopping gowns that became synonymous with elegance and luxury.
A Legacy of Glamour and Craftsmanship
After retiring in 2008, Valentino's remarkable contributions to fashion were honoured with major exhibitions, including the 2012 showcase at Somerset House in London titled Valentino: Master of Couture. This exhibition displayed over a hundred of his iconic outfits, each accompanied by a card bearing the name of the royal, diva, or star for whom it was meticulously crafted. The display highlighted the superlative techniques of his atelier seamstresses, known as the ragazze, who painstakingly sewed each garment by hand.
From Hollywood Dreams to Parisian Acceptance
Born in Voghera, Lombardy, in 1932, Valentino was inspired by the glittering robes of showgirls in the 1941 Hollywood musical Ziegfeld Girl. He pursued his passion through education at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris and apprenticeships with couturiers Jean Dessès and Guy Laroche. In 1959, with backing from his father, he opened his first couture studio on Rome's Via Condotti, determined to rival Parisian standards.
His career took a pivotal turn in 1960 when he met Giancarlo Giammetti, a 19-year-old architecture student with a keen business acumen. Together, they rebuilt the company, capitalising on Italy's relatively affordable craftwork compared to France. Valentino's breakthrough came in 1962 with a show at the Pitti Palace in Florence, attracting American buyers and leading to direct sales in New York by 1964.
Dressing the Elite: From Jackie O to Modern Stars
Valentino's clientele included some of the most iconic women of the 20th and 21st centuries. He became a favoured designer for Jacqueline Kennedy, creating her delicate lace wedding dress for her marriage to Aristotle Onassis. His roster extended to Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, and later, Jennifer Lopez and Cate Blanchett. As John Fairchild of Women's Wear Daily noted, Valentino focused on dressing very important, beautiful women, emphasising glamour without vulgarity.
Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, he served as a court dressmaker to figures like Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran and Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. Despite criticism from rivals like Pierre Bergé, Valentino maintained his reputation for featherweight majesty, prioritising the wearer's needs and comfort.
Business Acumen and Extravagant Lifestyle
Under Giammetti's management, Valentino expanded into lucrative licensing deals, amassing up to 42 agreements that funded an opulent lifestyle. The duo enjoyed parties, travel with retinues, and multiple homes worldwide, alongside a yacht, jet, and a bullet-proof Ferrari in Valentino's signature red. Their extravagance surpassed even Parisian couturiers, with Valentino building an impressive art collection, including a prized Bronzino portrait.
In 1998, they sold the company for $300 million to the Italian conglomerate HdP, marking a shift in the fashion industry towards brand consolidation. The house changed hands several times, eventually being acquired by a Qatari consortium in 2012.
Retirement and Lasting Impact
Valentino's final collection debuted in 2008, but he continued to design for select clients and ballet productions in retirement. His life was documented in Matt Tyrnauer's 2008 film, Valentino: The Last Emperor, which highlighted the close relationships between the designer, his clients, and his dedicated staff. The film underscored how his retirement felt like the end of an era in haute couture.
Among his numerous accolades, Valentino cherished his 2006 appointment as a chevalier of the Légion d'honneur and the 2008 Médaille de la Ville de Paris, symbols of his acceptance by the French fashion establishment that once doubted Italian couture.
Valentino Garavani's legacy endures through his timeless designs, which continue to inspire the fashion world. His dedication to craftsmanship, client relationships, and uncompromising glamour has left an indelible mark on the industry.
