The vibrant Lebanese restaurant scene that once defined Sydney's Surry Hills neighbourhood is facing significant decline, with the recent closure of Abdul's Lebanese Restaurant serving as a poignant symbol of this cultural shift. Operating since 1968, this beloved establishment shut its doors earlier this month, ending more than five decades of serving the community.
The End of an Era for Sydney's 'Little Lebanon'
What began as a modest falafel shop in 1968 grew into a Sydney institution that fed everyone from celebrities to students seeking late-night kebabs. For the Ghazal family, who founded and operated the restaurant, it represented the pioneering spirit of early Lebanese migration to Australia.
Hiba Damaa, whose parents Dib and Nizam Ghazal opened the restaurant and named it after her eldest brother Abdul, recalls the humble beginnings: "Abdul's originated as a Lebanese sweets and pastry shop run by my brother-in-law. When he wanted to move on, my parents started selling falafel sandwiches. It was tiny. There wasn't any Lebanese bread of course, so my mother made it all from scratch, and the line for those sandwiches used to go halfway down the street."
A Family Legacy of Generosity
Abdul's daughter Dina Ghazal, who worked at the restaurant throughout her youth, remembers her father's unwavering dedication to his customers. "Dad never took his customers for granted," she says. "He was very serious about the business running how it should. In the early years there were tablecloths and wine glasses, and we had to wear a uniform."
Abdul Ghazal maintained exacting standards, insisting on preparing labour-intensive menu items because customers loved them. "He used to give out a free falafel with tahini sauce if it was really busy and people had to wait in line," Dina recalls. "He always said you could not succeed in the food business if you were not generous."
The Changing Face of Surry Hills
Many Sydneysiders assume the Lebanese community has always been concentrated in the city's western suburbs, but Surry Hills and neighbouring Redfern once formed what was known as 'Little Lebanon.' John Betros, 91, who opened his pharmacy business in Surry Hills in 1960, remembers when most homes on Great Buckingham Street were occupied by Lebanese families.
"The Lebanese go where the churches are," Betros explains, noting that churches with Lebanese priests were well established in the area by the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Wilson's, on Pitt Street in Redfern, claims to be the area's first Lebanese restaurant, opening in 1957.
A Thriving Restaurant Hub
When Betros arrived in Surry Hills, several restaurants catered to Lebanese migrants, particularly single men seeking home-cooked meals after work. "There was a Lebanese chicken shop, and then the Ghazal family opened Abdul's," he remembers. "They were doing well so another opened next door to them called The Prophet, and they were doing well, and then next door to them was a Lebanese grocery store owned by a Greek man and his Lebanese wife. And because people were filling the restaurants, another one called Fatima's opened up. Lebanese food was in great demand."
Remarkably, Betros recalls all the restaurant proprietors maintained friendly relationships despite being competitors. "There was no animosity between them. They were all nice people and all very respectful of each other."
Cultural Adaptation and Evolution
As the clientele diversified beyond the Lebanese community, restaurants adapted their offerings. Some recruited belly dancers for functions and Saturday nights, creating a vibrant atmosphere that attracted broader patronage. Eleanor Sharman, who belly danced at nearby restaurant Emad's, remembers distinct cultural differences in how audiences responded to her performances.
"If it was a couple on a date, the woman would be watching the man, and so he would be trying not to look at me," she says of western audiences. Lebanese patrons had their own traditions, like tucking bills into her belt and bra during performances.
Dina Ghazal remembers the lively atmosphere at Abdul's: "The restaurant used to close at 2am. There'd be Arabic music on, and people would have birthdays and parties there. Some asked for the belly dancers and they would dance a little bit. It was fun."
Accommodating Australian Tastes
Abdul Ghazal was particularly focused on accommodating his customers' preferences, even when they diverged from traditional Lebanese cuisine. "Dad was adamant that he wanted to cater to the Australian community who still wanted their tomato sauce with hummus and their tahini with BBQ sauce," Dina explains. "He didn't care that they would not make it like that in Lebanon. He just wanted to give people what they liked to eat."
Multiple Factors Behind the Decline
Family members and local business owners point to several interconnected factors contributing to the decline of Surry Hills' Lebanese restaurant scene. Dina Ghazal and Hiba Damaa identify changing demographics, rising rents, and reduced foot traffic following the COVID-19 pandemic as primary challenges.
Damaa notes additional economic pressures specific to Lebanese cuisine: "The labour that goes into preparing Lebanese food, the many fresh ingredients required, and customers' low-price expectations do not help. I contrast it with a bowl of pasta that you pay $30 for made mostly of flour and egg."
Abraham Zailaa, owner of nearby restaurant Fatima's, told ABC Radio Sydney that before COVID-19, Surry Hills was "thriving" thanks to people attending theatres and sporting events. Now local cafes and restaurants "need the support."
Gentrification Concerns
As tributes flowed following Abdul's closure, long-time fans and local residents expressed concerns about gentrification transforming the neighbourhood. Many fear the restaurant's prime location might be replaced by a gym or corporate chain eatery rather than another independent restaurant.
Abdul Ghazal passed away nine years ago, and at the time of closure, the restaurant was run by his nephew Omar Ghazal, who recently revealed the establishment will be "coming back stronger" after going into liquidation. Whether this revival will occur in the same location or format remains uncertain.
The closure of Abdul's Lebanese Restaurant represents more than just the loss of a dining establishment—it marks the fading of a cultural era in Surry Hills. As demographic shifts, economic pressures, and post-pandemic realities reshape urban neighbourhoods, the story of Abdul's serves as a reminder of how communities evolve and what can be lost in the process of change.
