Pay Now, Drink Later: A Beginner's Guide to En Primeur Wine
As the Burgundy En Primeur season unfolds in London for the 2024 vintage, wine enthusiasts are presented with a unique opportunity to invest in fine wines before they reach maturity. En Primeur, a French term meaning "in youth," involves purchasing wine while it is still in barrel, prior to bottling and final release. This practice allows buyers to secure bottles from coveted producers at an early stage, often before general availability.
Understanding the En Primeur Process
At its core, En Primeur means buying wine before it is finished and bottled, essentially committing to a purchase without having tasted the final product. This might sound like a risky venture, but it offers several compelling advantages for both collectors and casual drinkers alike.
By participating in En Primeur, buyers gain early access to limited-production wines, ensuring they can obtain bottles from highly sought-after vintages before they sell out. This is particularly relevant for Burgundy, widely regarded as the most prestigious wine region globally. Even in abundant harvest years, Burgundy wines frequently disappear from shelves quickly due to high demand.
Why Consider En Primeur Purchases?
There are multiple reasons why wine lovers might choose to buy En Primeur:
- Financial Benefits: Purchasing unfinished wine typically comes at a discounted price compared to what the bottled product will cost upon release. Once a vintage hits retail shelves—especially if it receives critical acclaim or comes from a desirable producer—prices often increase significantly.
- Supporting Producers: En Primeur purchases provide crucial financial support to winemakers during the production process. This early investment helps ensure the livelihood of the artisans whose work you ultimately enjoy in your glass.
- Securing Rare Bottles: For the 2024 Burgundy vintage, which faced numerous challenges including frost, mildew, and heavy rains that reduced yields, En Primeur offers one of the few ways to guarantee access to these scarce wines.
The 2024 Burgundy Vintage: A Promising Year
Despite the difficult growing conditions that beset the 2024 vintage, early indications suggest a promising outcome. The wines appear to be developing in a classic, fresh style that many enthusiasts find particularly appealing.
Eleanore Latour of Maison Louis Latour expressed both surprise and relief at the quality achieved given the challenging weather patterns. "Thankfully the sun emerged during the summer months, allowing the surviving grapes to reach optimal ripeness," she noted. "The reds display super-aromatic profiles with notes of fresh fruits, cherries, and blackcurrant, accompanied by a certain crunchiness on the palate. Meanwhile, the whites show really pleasing freshness with a linear character in the mouth. We're witnessing a return to a certain classicism in Burgundy that we haven't seen much recently, following a series of warmer years."
These wines are likely to feature lower alcohol levels compared to those produced during hotter growing seasons. However, some debate exists regarding their aging potential. While they offer good fruit expression and vibrant acidity, certain reds may lack the structural components necessary for extended cellaring. Some producers suggest this might be a vintage best enjoyed in its youth.
Caroline Drouhin of Domaine Drouhin-Laroze emphasized how meticulous vineyard management helped salvage what ultimately became a successful harvest. "Small berries required gentle handling and restrained extraction to preserve tannin quality," she explained. "Initial barrel tastings have revealed pleasant surprises—accessible yet structured tannins with notable depth and clear terroir expression. This vintage offers both immediate approachability and underlying complexity."
Experiencing Burgundy in London
Regardless of vintage characteristics, Burgundy wines possess an undeniable allure. Here are two London establishments where you can appreciate these fine wines:
Mazarine, Mayfair
This recently opened Mayfair destination already attracts discerning crowds with its French coastal cuisine. The elegant setting features soft lighting, white tablecloths, and attentive service. Indulge in small plates like oysters, caviar brioche, lobster croque monsieur, and taramasalata-filled doughnuts, perfectly paired with chilled Chablis 1er Cru. For main courses, try the dover sole meunière accompanied by elegant glasses of Rully—a Burgundy subregion particularly celebrated for its white wines. Save room for dessert, where you can enjoy delicious Sauternes to complete your culinary journey.
Chez Antoinette, Covent Garden
Tucked beneath Covent Garden market, this family-run restaurant transports visitors to a French grandmother's kitchen they never knew they missed. Created by former interior designer Aurélia, the space feels instantly cosy and calming with vintage crockery adorning the walls, jazz playing softly in the background, and an antique wooden dresser displaying exquisite pastries. The bustling kitchen serves comforting classics including boeuf bourguignon and various cheese presentations—from baked camembert with honey to tartine raclette and oozing croque monsieur. These dishes pair beautifully with reasonably priced Pinot Noir from Burgundy, creating an atmosphere where troubles fade away and guests feel genuinely cared for.
Whether you're considering your first En Primeur purchase or simply seeking to enjoy Burgundy's delights, understanding this unique aspect of wine culture opens doors to exceptional experiences and potentially valuable additions to your collection.
