Catalan Fork Breakfast Fights Bland Brunch and Overtourism in Barcelona
As Barcelona braces for another busy holiday season, tensions around tourism are rising, with residents protesting soaring rents and a blandified city center. Amid this backdrop, a grassroots movement is gaining momentum to revive the traditional Catalan "esmorzar de forquilla," or fork breakfast, as a flavorful alternative to generic brunch spots that symbolize overtourism.
The Rise of Anti-Brunch Sentiment
Brunch, coined in 1895, has become emblematic of gentrification in European cities like Barcelona. Generic cafes with homogeneous menus and decor have replaced local businesses, eroding the city's character and catering heavily to tourists. Protests in Barcelona, including slogans like "Stop brunch!" and "Ban Airbnb," highlight resident frustrations. While methods such as squirting tourists with water pistols have sparked debate, the core issue remains: locals feel marginalized in their own city.
Reviving a Rustic Tradition
In 2020, journalist Albert Molins created a Google Maps listing to promote the esmorzar de forquilla, a hearty meal between breakfast and lunch. Originating in 19th-century rural Catalonia as a laborer's fuel, it typically includes a main dish, wine, bread, and coffee for under €15. Dishes like trinxat (potato and cabbage hash), fricandó (veal stew), and cap i pota (veal head and feet stew) offer a stark contrast to brunch menus, celebrating traditional Catalan cuisine.
Community-Driven Movement
Molins' initiative evolved into the EsmorzApp, a platform where users share favorite fork breakfast spots. This has expanded the community of esmorzadors, attracting younger diners alongside traditional clientele. For example, Gelida restaurant in Eixample reports growing popularity. While not a solution to overtourism alone, such efforts foster local culture and invite tourists to participate authentically.
Balancing Perspectives
Molins emphasizes that the esmorzar isn't inherently better than brunch but represents Catalan history. Vegetarian options may be limited, but the movement's value lies in its community spirit. Visitors are encouraged to download EsmorzApp and try dishes like cap i pota, supporting local traditions while enjoying a unique culinary experience.
