Cylla Birmingham: A Greek Culinary Adventure with Style and Substance
Nestled on Newhall Street in the heart of Birmingham, Cylla stands as a classy Greek restaurant that draws inspiration from Scylla, the legendary man-eating sea monster of Greek mythology. This establishment, recently transformed from an All Bar One, manages to blend high drama with refined elegance, creating a dining experience that is both seriously Greek and delightfully playful.
An Atmosphere of Warmth and Conviviality
Even on a wet Wednesday in mid-January, when many restaurants across the UK might be deserted or closed, Cylla was bustling with energy. The venue attracts a diverse clientele, from intimate tables of two to larger business groups, thanks to its location in the commercial district. The interior features gorgeous private booths at the entrance, offering a cosy retreat for those seeking privacy, alongside a long, prettily lit cocktail bar that sets the stage for an evening of indulgence.
Cocktails and Starters: A Mythological Journey
The cocktail menu at Cylla is a highlight, with drinks named after Greek myths and crafted with precision. Poseidon's Wrath, for example, is an invigorating blend of vodka and vermouth, infused with piney mastiha, seaweed, and kalamata olive brine, delivering a salty, head-spinning experience. For those with a sweeter palate, options like Aphrodite's Bloom offer honey, peach, and meringue-based delights. The service matches the quality of the drinks, with warm, knowledgeable staff who enhance the hospitality experience.
When it comes to food, the menu is roaringly traditional Greek, with occasional Mediterranean and British influences. A smoked aubergine meze stands out for its smooth, rich texture and impressive depth of smokiness, accented with parsley, garlic, and vinegar. The prawn saganaki is another winner, featuring firm king prawns in a well-balanced garlic and ouzo tomato sauce, best enjoyed with a basket of warm homemade bread.
Main Courses and Standout Sides
While some dishes, like the lamb baklava, may fall short of expectations by blending sweet baklava with cumin and thyme-flavoured lamb, others shine brightly. A red snapper main course offers a generous piece of flaking fish on a subtle bouillabaisse-style sauce, though it could benefit from more basil, fennel, and star anise. However, the true star of the show is the beef fat potatoes, which might just be the best potato side dish served in the UK today. These potatoes feature a fluffy mash-like centre with a crisp exterior coated in beef fat, elevating a familiar gastropub staple to new heights.
Desserts and Overall Impressions
The karidopita walnut dessert showcases fancy-schmancy plating with smears, foams, and puddles of pecan cremeux and chocolate namelaka, yet remains delightful in its execution. Cylla excels as both a dependable spot for group dining and a romantic setting, especially if you secure one of the private booths. In a city centre filled with chain restaurants, Cylla ploughs its own furrow, offering a personal touch that feels increasingly rare. With prices starting from about £60 per person for à la carte or set lunch options, it's a destination worth visiting for an unforgettable Greek feast.
