As the festive season fades, Guardian food writer Felicity Cloake offers the perfect culinary antidote to the January gloom: a vibrant and fiery plate of penne all'arrabbiata. This classic Italian dish, whose name translates to 'angry' pasta, promises to lift spirits with its rich, tomatoey sauce and chilli heat, all while being vegan, quick to prepare, and made from pantry staples.
The Anatomy of a Simple, Spicy Sauce
Cloake's masterclass begins with building layers of flavour in the sauce. The foundation is a generous two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, heated in a pan. To this, a teaspoon of chilli flakes is added, with the advice to adjust the quantity based on personal heat preference or to use fresh chillies. Finely sliced garlic cloves join the mix once the chilli darkens, cooking until just golden.
The recipe takes a purist stance at this stage, noting that while some versions include anchovies or cured pork like pancetta, Cloake believes the dish needs neither. Instead, a 400-gram tin of good-quality tomatoes or passata is poured in, brought to a simmer, and left to bubble gently for about 15 minutes until thickened. A quarter teaspoon of red-wine vinegar is stirred in at the end to brighten the flavours.
Pasta Choices and Perfect Pairing
While the sauce simmers, 200 grams of penne is cooked in salted boiling water. Cloake explains that penne is the traditional shape for arrabbiata, as its tubes trap the chunky sauce, but she is open to experimentation. She references The Geometry of Pasta by Caz Hildebrand and Jacob Kenedy, which suggests alternatives like farfalle or tagliatelle, and personally recommends rigatoni or fusilli. Jamie Oliver's use of spaghetti is also acknowledged for those seeking a different experience.
The final act involves draining the pasta and tossing it thoroughly in the pan of sauce. If the mixture seems too thick, a splash of the reserved pasta cooking water helps to loosen it. The dish is finished with a drizzle of olive oil and a handful of torn fresh basil or flat-leaf parsley. For those who cannot resist cheese, pecorino romano is suggested as the ideal accompaniment.
Make-Ahead Tips for Effortless Meals
For efficient meal planning, Cloake provides practical advice for preparing components in advance. The sauce can be made ahead and stored, kept slightly looser than final consistency. The pasta can be cooked until extra al dente and then stored in iced water for up to an hour to prevent sticking. When ready to serve, the sauce is reheated, the thoroughly drained pasta is stirred in to warm through, and the dish is completed with fresh herbs and oil.
This recipe, requiring just 5 minutes of preparation and 25 minutes of cooking to serve two, stands as a testament to the joy of simple, well-executed Italian cooking. It transforms basic ingredients—tomatoes, garlic, chilli, and pasta—into a comforting yet spirited meal perfectly suited for the post-Christmas period and beyond.
