Traditionalists might raise an eyebrow at the concept of a spicy Sunday roast, but for adventurous diners seeking culinary excitement, it represents a vibrant reimagining of Britain's cherished weekend ritual. The classic Sunday dinner, with its familiar parade of roasted meats, vegetables, and rich gravy, has long served as a centrepiece for family gatherings. Now, innovative Indian restaurants across London are embracing this tradition, injecting bold flavours into the nation's favourite weekend feast.
South London's Spicy Sanctuary
In the heart of East Dulwich, Kokum restaurant has emerged as South London's sophisticated destination for those craving a tongue-tingling twist on Sunday lunch. Nestled beside Goose Green playground, this establishment combines a charming wood-decked terrace with parasol-shaded seating, creating an ideal setting for al fresco dining during warmer months. The venue's aesthetic transitions from a moody, intimate bar area featuring exposed dark blue brickwork and ambient pendant lighting to a bright, spacious saffron-coloured dining hall with rustic wooden tables thoughtfully arranged for comfort.
An Exquisite Culinary Journey
Kokum's regular à la carte menu showcases impressive starters like Allo Tuk – baby potatoes glazed with tamarind and spices – and Chicken Lillipops featuring crispy chicken with tomato, chilli, and garlic. However, the true weekend attraction emerges through their four distinctive Sunday lunch offerings, each served with spiced potatoes, flavourful gravy, cooling raita, fresh naan bread, crispy papad, and salad.
The selection includes Tandoori Roast Chicken, where chicken on the bone is marinated in yoghurt with fresh ginger, garlic, lemon, and traditional tandoori spices. Vegetarians can enjoy Roast Gobi, featuring cauliflower florets tossed with aromatic spices and roasted to crispy perfection. For seafood lovers, the Roast Kingfish Steak presents fresh fish marinated in coastal spices and gently cooked in banana leaf. The standout Roast Shank of Lamb offers slow-roasted, tender meat that practically melts away from the bone.
A Personal Taste Experience
Beginning with starters, the Amritsari Fish delivers breaded pieces of fish packed with hot spices, accompanied by a mint and coriander chutney that intriguingly echoes traditional mushy peas. The Sticky Pork Ribs combine familiar barbecue flavours with an explosive fusion of Chinese and Indian spices, creating a truly zingy appetiser.
For the main event, the Roast Shank of Lamb proves particularly memorable. Generous portions of exceptionally tender lamb arrive alongside spiced potatoes and nihari gravy. The meat itself represents gastro excellence, peppered with arresting spices that linger delightfully on the palate. The accompanying gravy maintains a rich, deep brown colour and comforting thickness without overwhelming heat, while the potatoes carry homely notes of tamarind and turmeric. The harmonious blend of flavours creates a dining experience that continues to resonate long after the meal concludes.
Beyond the Meal
Departing Kokum brings that satisfying fullness characteristic of a proper Sunday dinner, combined with the exhilarating sense of culinary discovery. The restaurant's plush outdoor decking serves as a constant reminder of summer leisure and relaxed social gatherings. Meanwhile, the menu leaves diners contemplating unexplored dishes and future visits to sample more of Kokum's spicy creations. This establishment certainly warrants return visits for anyone in the neighbourhood seeking innovative takes on British classics.
Kokum demonstrates how London's beloved Indian restaurants are creatively maximising daytime footfall by reinterpreting traditional Sunday roasts. Following in the footsteps of establishments like Tamil Crown in Islington, Kokum has successfully carved its own niche in South London's dining scene, offering families and food enthusiasts alike a compelling reason to gather on Sunday afternoons for something genuinely different.
