Perfect Cheese Khachapuri: Georgia's Iconic Cheesebread
Felicity Cloake's quest for the perfect cheese khachapuri reveals the secrets behind Georgia's most iconic dish. This indulgent cheese-stuffed bread, described by chef Tiko Tuskadze as perhaps the most iconic of all Georgian dishes, combines fluffy dough with gooey, salty cheese fillings that have captivated food lovers worldwide.
The Georgian Cheesebread Experience
The first encounter with khachapuri often happens in Georgian restaurants like Little Georgia in London, where traditional cheesebread baked to order delivers golden rounds of fluffy, buttery bread spilling hot, salty dairy onto plates. Silvena Rowe notes this indulgent treat passes for fast food in Georgia, making other fast food options seem inadequate by comparison.
Tuskadze explains in her book Supra that khachapuri variations are as numerous as Georgian families. The boat-shaped adjaruili version has taken the internet by storm, while Ossetian varieties include mashed potato, and Gurian versions feature hard-boiled eggs with supremely fluffy, slightly oniony soufflé-like cheese fillings. Caroline Eden shares the glorious Georgian word shemomechama from her book Green Mountains, which loosely translates as "I accidentally ate the whole thing."
This recipe focuses on imeruli khachapuri, originally from west-central Imereti region, which Polina Chesnakova notes is by far the most commonly consumed version in Georgia itself. Tuskadze describes it as essentially flat bread stuffed with buttery imeruli cheese curds cooked on the stovetop.
Crafting the Perfect Dough
Darra Goldstein writes in The Georgian Feast that khachapuri dough varies dramatically by region. It can be yeasty with thick crusts, many-layered and flaky, or tender and cake-like. At home, khachapuri is more often made without yeast, using baking soda or yoghurt to tenderize the dough.
Chesnakova describes adjaruili dough as closer to pizza dough with satisfying crackle, while imeruli dough is soft, tender, and melts in your mouth. After testing various approaches, Tuskadze's recipe proves most popular with testers, producing tender, rich dough with yoghurt, butter, and egg yolk that's so soft some suspect lard usage.
For this simplified version, strong bread flour isn't necessary since gluten formation isn't the goal. Natural yoghurt works perfectly, though soured cream could substitute. The recipe streamlines by using butter alone rather than egg yolk and sunflower oil, maintaining excellent results. Seasoning is crucial, while sugar additions from older yeasted versions prove unnecessary.
The Cheese Filling Challenge
The greatest challenge for cooks outside Georgia is recreating authentic cheese fillings. Tuskadze explains importation laws make Imeretian cheese impossible to find in the UK, requiring creative substitutions. Her combination of feta and mozzarella creates lovely salty flavor with tantalizing strings when cut.
After experimenting with homemade cheese following a Georgian home cook's recipe, the search continues for accessible alternatives. Goldstein recommends American cheese blends, while Chesnakova uses mozzarella, feta, and ricotta. Capalbo suggests equal parts cheddar, emmental, mozzarella, and cottage cheese for richer, cheesier flavor.
The winning combination uses grated halloumi for bouncy texture and saltiness mixed with creamy, tangy Port Salut that melts beautifully. This blend comes closest to Imeretian khachapuri flavors experienced in Georgian restaurants. Some recipes include eggs in fillings, though this version avoids extra moisture while allowing optional seasoning adjustments.
Shaping and Cooking Techniques
The soft, tender dough approach offers execution advantages. Using low-protein plain flour mixed until smooth rather than kneaded extensively simplifies shaping. While some methods create square envelopes or rectangular crimped pasties, the widespread technique of making a huge dumpling then flattening it proves most straightforward and satisfying.
Khachapuri can be oven-baked or pan-fried. Oven cooking requires less attention but pan-frying is quicker and more energy efficient. After frying, placing directly on hot baking sheets crisps bottoms beautifully. Alternatively, baking in wide 23cm diameter tins works well for easier handling.
Though khachapuri tastes best hot and melty, it reheats successfully in hot pans. The final touch involves painting tops and sides with melted butter for perfect gilding.
Perfect Cheese Khachapuri Recipe
Prep: 20 minutes Rest: 30 minutes Cook: 15 minutes Serves: 4-6
Ingredients:
- 200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
- ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda
- ½ tsp salt
- 125g natural yoghurt – not strained/Greek
- 45g butter, melted and cooled, plus extra for greasing and finishing
- 100g cold Port Salut, or similar mild, creamy cheese
- 150g halloumi, grated
- Salt and pepper (optional)
Method:
- Sift flour, bicarb, and salt into large bowl. Stir in yoghurt then cooled butter, mixing until smooth, damp but not too sticky dough forms. Cover and rest 30 minutes.
- Grate cheeses while dough rests. Combine grated cheeses and season lightly if desired.
- If baking, heat oven and lightly greased baking tray to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7.
- Roll rested dough on lightly floured surface to roughly ½cm-thick circle. Pile grated cheeses in center, leaving wide border around edges.
- Bring two opposite circle points together over cheese center and pinch together. Repeat with remaining edges until large, firmly sealed cheese dumpling forms.
- Flatten to 25-30cm diameter with hands then rolling pin. For baking, cut small air hole in top.
- To bake: Slide onto hot greased tray, bake 15 minutes until golden brown.
- To pan-fry: Cook in medium heat frying pan 5 minutes until brown spots appear on base. Carefully flip using plate, repeat on other side. If bulging occurs after flipping, cut small top hole to release steam.
- Paint top and sides with melted butter and serve hot.
This perfect cheese khachapuri recipe brings Georgia's iconic cheesebread to home kitchens with accessible ingredients and proven techniques. The combination of fluffy dough and gooey cheese filling creates irresistible indulgence that truly embodies Georgian culinary tradition.
