Romano's Emerges as Formidable Rival to Brasserie Zedel with Exceptional Value Dining
London's dining scene has witnessed the arrival of a significant new contender that directly challenges one of the capital's most beloved affordable luxury establishments. Romano's, the latest venture from legendary restaurateur Jeremy King, has opened its doors in the historic Simpson's in the Strand building, offering a three-course menu for just £29.75 – positioning itself as direct competition to the iconic Brasserie Zedel.
The Jeremy King Philosophy: Affordable Luxury for All
Jeremy King, the visionary behind London institutions including The Ivy, Le Caprice, and The Delaunay, has consistently championed the idea that exceptional dining experiences should be accessible. At seventy years old, King maintains that his success stems from holding his nerve and ignoring fleeting trends in favor of timeless quality. His newest venture, Romano's, embodies this philosophy by offering remarkable value in an opulent setting.
"The incredibly wealthy aren't always the most fun," King has noted, explaining his commitment to maintaining affordable options that attract diverse crowds. Despite current challenges in restaurant operating costs, Romano's presents a three-course Formule menu for £24.95, demonstrating King's dedication to accessible luxury.
A Historic Setting Restored to Former Glory
Romano's occupies the upstairs dining room of the Grade II listed Simpson's in the Strand building, which originally opened in 1904. King has dedicated twenty-five years to meticulously refurbishing this space, restoring its Edwardian glamour with remarkable attention to detail. The dining room features heavy dark wooden paneling, statement staircases, elaborate ceiling latticework, and crisp white tablecloths, all complemented by views of the Strand through elegant windows.
The atmosphere evokes a bygone era of sophistication, complete with suited waiters and a roaming dessert trolley. What makes this experience extraordinary is that such opulence typically commands premium prices, yet King has managed to deliver it at remarkably accessible rates.
Culinary Excellence: The Classics Done Exceptionally Well
Romano's menu focuses on British classics executed with precision and care. The three-course offering begins with a heritage courgette and tomato tart featuring exceptionally fresh, vibrant vegetables on a perfectly buttery base that may well represent London's most indulgent tomato tart. Vegetarian options here certainly don't feel like compromises.
The main course of pork and herb faggots arrives with a rich, moreish jus and wonderfully indulgent mashed potatoes. These are nicely seasoned and portioned appropriately for what the restaurant describes as "the lighter side of English dining." For those wanting to fully embrace the British theme, side orders include excellent scotch eggs and pork pies.
Dessert features a delicate lemon posset served in ornate glassware, silky-smooth with perfectly balanced citrus tang, beautifully presented with grapefruit segments. The dish is so visually appealing it practically demands photographic documentation, despite King's well-known skepticism about influencer culture.
Comparing the Competition: Atmosphere Versus Culinary Quality
Brasserie Zedel has long been celebrated as an Art Deco haven beneath Piccadilly Circus, offering live music and affordable French-inspired cuisine in what remains London's largest surviving Art Deco ballroom. For many Londoners, including this journalist who discovered it in their early twenties, Zedel provided that thrilling experience of feeling immersed in luxury while actually being able to afford it.
However, Romano's presents a compelling alternative just a ten-minute walk away on the Strand. While Zedel's live music creates an atmosphere that currently surpasses Romano's – where the absence of music can make the room feel heavy when not full – the food quality at Romano's represents a significant advancement. Recent criticisms about declining quality at Zedel make Romano's culinary excellence particularly noteworthy.
Teething Problems in a New Establishment
As with any new restaurant, Romano's experiences some initial operational challenges. During a Tuesday evening visit at 9 PM, the dining room became completely silent by 10 PM as word about the establishment hasn't fully spread yet. Mains took forty-five minutes to arrive despite assurances of no kitchen issues, and service proved somewhat slow, requiring requests for plate clearing and drink refills even when the restaurant was nearly empty.
These are typical growing pains for a restaurant that opened just over a month ago and should improve as operations stabilize and popularity increases.
The Verdict: Exceptional Value in Central London
Romano's represents one of central London's best value dining experiences, offering superior food quality compared to its established rival in a beautifully restored historic setting. While Brasserie Zedel maintains an atmospheric advantage with its live music, Romano's culinary offerings currently outshine what has recently been available at the Piccadilly institution.
For those seeking affordable luxury in magnificent surroundings with exceptional British cuisine, Romano's deserves immediate attention. Book now before this secret becomes widely known – Jeremy King has once again delivered accessible sophistication that makes fine dining feel within reach for Londoners seeking quality without exorbitant expense.
