Lunch at Vesper begins how all good meals should: with crisps and dip. More restaurants should do this, as diners gleefully dunk golden salt and vinegar discs into creamy sweet smoked onion with day-glo trout roe.
Celebrated chef Jackson Boxer's newest venture
Jackson Boxer, the chef behind Brunswick House, Dove, Henri and Below Stone Nest, has opened Vesper on an airy corner at the edge of Exmouth Market. He has taken a leaf out of the St John book of interiors, opting for a chic all-white design with the odd flourish of silver. In the bathroom, things get a bit more arty, with scribble-covered cubicles that resemble a graffiti-laden club toilet having a baby with an Egon Schiele drawing.
In true laissez-faire style, a large part of the restaurant is reserved for walk-ins. An unexpected lunchtime rush means mains are a bit slow to arrive, and it takes a while to flag down a glass of wine. But as for the food? Practically flawless.
Modern European bites with a wink
Boxer's menu delivers modern European bites with a wink. Alongside the beloved chips-and-dip, starters include a revelatory spring onion pancake topped with velvety tuna and an adorable coil of anchovy inside an olive. Also great is mackerel with a beautiful scattering of peas and raspberries.
If there is a burger, I am ordering it. Vesper's off-menu one is a beast – no flimsy smashed patties to be found here. Instead, a handsome, perfectly-charred hunk of beef in a brioche bun towers majestically on a bed of rich peppercorn sauce. Add sweet onions and gooey gorgonzola and you have got yourself a winner. But be warned: made from off-cuts, there are only a limited number of these bovine bites served each day, much like the ones at Boxer's Dove across town.
Dessert and drinks
Things finish as well as they began, with black velvet cake. Topped with a cloud of sufficiently tart frosting, this Guinness and Champagne bake is pure joy and very much for grown ups.
With bar seating and outdoor tables, Vesper is also a solid drinking spot, and feels equally suited for a steamy date or solo stop. The crisp Vesper martini is perfect for both, served with a flamboyant spray of citrus perfume.
Verdict
Once they get used to their popularity, Vesper will have nailed the modern bistro. It is not pretentious or overly trendy, just really good food in a lovely setting. I am already looking forward to my next visit.
The vibe: A stylish bistro that is bright and airy by day, and candlelit by night. The food: Not-too-serious modern European cuisine, complete with a powerful burger. The drinks: Strong cocktails and chilled reds. Time Out tip: Do not have a booking? Chance it for one of many walk-in tables.
