In a move that has left sustainable chefs across the UK feeling let down, the Michelin Guide has abruptly retired its green star award, which recognized eco-friendly practices in restaurants. The award, introduced in 2020 to encourage sustainability amidst the climate crisis, will no longer be advertised by winners, and the green plaques displayed at their entrances will be removed.
Chefs Express Disappointment
Piers Milburn, owner of Pythouse Kitchen Garden in Wiltshire, which won a green star last year, expressed his dismay. "It's disappointing – one of our dreams was to have one. We think it's quite irresponsible for Michelin to build a platform for businesses to thrive from for an accolade and then whisk it away. We were enormously proud of it and now we feel let down by them." His menu features sustainable ingredients such as English fava beans, hand-dived scallops, and local blackberries.
Hylton Espey, owner of Culture restaurant in Falmouth, Cornwall, which serves fish from the local market and mushrooms from a nearby no-dig garden, criticized the lack of communication. "We did not have any communication regarding the green star changes until after the press release went out. We feel that this could have been handled better." He added that the star helped his restaurant stand out internationally, enabling collaborations with chefs from the US and appearances at international events.
Cecily Fearnley, owner of Homestead Kitchen Garden in North Yorkshire, was equally disappointed. "The fact we were recognized by Michelin was a fantastic boost for us, and definitely led people to us who care about the same things. It was amazing publicity to send people to our farmhouse restaurant on the North York Moors." She vowed to continue her sustainable practices regardless of the award.
Michelin's New Direction
Instead of the green star, Michelin will launch Mindful Voices, a global editorial platform focusing on sustainable restaurants and pioneers in gastronomy, hospitality, and wine. However, this platform will not bestow any official accolade, leaving it unclear how it will recognize sustainability efforts. The guide has not provided a specific reason for phasing out the stars but confirmed that all 37 current holders will lose the accolade at the end of the year.
Milburn speculated that the green star's similarity to the traditional Michelin star caused confusion. "In all fairness, there was a bit of confusion about the green star. People would turn up and say: 'We heard you have a Michelin star.' From the outset, the branding for the star wasn't right – it looks too much like a Michelin star."
Jan Ostle, head chef and co-owner of Wilsons in Bristol, which serves produce from its market garden, expressed pride in her green star and sympathy for recent winners. "My heart also goes out to the people who won green stars this year. For it to be retired the very same year seems unfair." However, she noted that sustainable practices have become more mainstream. "Practices such as working closely with local growers, reducing waste, improving staff culture, and thinking more carefully about sourcing should really just be part of what defines a good modern restaurant."
Michelin's Response
A spokesperson for the Michelin Guide stated: "The Michelin Guide wishes to reaffirm clearly its commitment to a more responsible approach to gastronomy. The Guide's ambition is evolving towards a broader and more universal expression, one that now encompasses our three pillars of excellence: gastronomy, hospitality and wine. In the context of a strong international expansion to more than 60 destinations, the introduction of Mindful Voices should not be seen as a step backwards, but rather as a progression designed to reinforce this commitment."
The retirement of the green star has raised concerns about corporate backtracking on sustainability initiatives, especially amid political backlash against climate programs. However, many chefs remain committed to eco-friendly practices, hoping that diners will continue to support them regardless of the award.
