The historic Harcourt Cooperative Cool Stores, a cornerstone of central Victoria's boutique wine and craft beer industry for over a century, has been reduced to ashes by devastating bushfires. The inferno, which tore through the area on Friday night, consumed not only a vital refrigerated storage facility but also the irreplaceable stock and equipment of about 85 local producers.
A Community Hub Lost to the Flames
For manager Trevor Peeler, a fifth-generation Harcourt apple grower who has spent half a century at the site, the loss is profoundly personal. Established in 1917 for a cooperative of apple growers, the Cool Stores had evolved into an essential hub for a new wave of winemakers and brewers. Peeler, who was protecting his own home blocks away as the fire raged, described a scene of utter devastation when he returned to survey the damage for insurance purposes.
"You actually can't be happy about it," Peeler said of saving his house. "You can feel lucky, but you can't feel happy because you look at everyone else who's lost... and it's just unimaginable." He spoke of watching customers, who had become friends, wandering the smouldering premises in a state of shock, a sight he found deeply affecting.
Irreplaceable Stock and a Steely Resolve
Among those grieving a professional lifetime's work is French winemaker Gilles Lapalus. He lost all his equipment and most of his stock, including museum wines dating back two decades and a 10-year-old solera system. "You can never replace that, because you can't replace time," Lapalus lamented, admitting he is struggling to process the reality that his meticulously tended inventory is gone.
Others are channelling their grief into determination. Ken Gilchrist and Kaye Graves of the GilGraves vineyard lost an estimated 97% of their stock, despite their Axedale vineyard being safe. "We looked at each other and said, 'What are we going to do?'" Graves recounted. "And we decided, GilGraves will rise from the ashes." She urged consumers to support the industry by always buying local, highlighting the soulful journey from planting a vine to producing a glass of wine.
The financial toll is immense. Conna Mallett of Love Shack Brewing Co lost 350 kegs and 1,400 slabs of beer, estimating a $120,000 hit that may not be fully covered by insurance. Doug Falconer of Shedshaker Brewery lost around 80% of his stock. This uncertainty over insurance payouts is a pressing concern for all affected businesses.
An Outpouring of Local Goodwill
In the face of catastrophe, the community of central Victoria has rallied with characteristic spirit. Tim Sproal, owner of Boomtown Winery in nearby Castlemaine, organised a fundraising event that snowballed beyond all expectations, raising over $130,000 by Sunday evening through raffles and donations from local venues and businesses.
"Castlemaine is the biggest well of goodwill ever," Sproal observed. "There are a lot of people here who want to contribute and who feel a bit hopeless and useless." This community support offers a glimmer of catharsis for producers like Falconer, for whom the disaster remains "raw and too close."
Looking to an uncertain future, Trevor Peeler holds onto the lessons of a lifetime in business. He hopes to rebuild the Cool Stores in a way that better serves his community of producers. "One thing I have learned in this process," the veteran manager reflected, "is if you treat people well, it'll come back to you."
