January is a notoriously difficult month for the hospitality sector, as many people tighten their belts both financially and calorifically. In a city like London, renowned for its incredible restaurants and rich culture of social dining, this wave of abstinence feels particularly bleak. The dark, cold weeks at the start of the year are precisely when we need the warmth and companionship of a great meal the most.
A Century of Theatrical History and Hospitality
This need for gastro-companionship brings to mind one of the capital's most celebrated dining institutions: The Ivy. The restaurant's story began in 1917, when Italian restaurateur Abel Giandellini opened a modest café in London's bustling theatre district. The legend goes that while apologising for building noise to actress Alice Delysia, she comforted him by saying, "we will cling together like the ivy". Thus, the restaurant found its enduring name.
Over a century later, actors, celebrities, theatregoers, and food lovers continue to cling to it. Its distinctive colourful stained-glass windows shine like a beacon of hope through the gloom of January.
The Timeless Joy of Getting the Basics Right
During a recent lunch, the absolute joy of a classic restaurant that executes the fundamentals perfectly was palpable. The relief was in the absence of gimmicks: no dry ice cocktails, no slates or chopping boards for plates, no sea of overpriced small plates. Instead, The Ivy delivers excellent food, proper portions, and effortless service, all delivered with the quiet confidence of an establishment that knows its worth.
There are certain dishes every Londoner should try at least once. The shepherd's pie, named by Tatler as one of the city's best recipes, is a prime example. It features a luxurious mix of duck, lamb, and beef mince in a rich red wine sauce, crowned with fluffy mashed potato. Another stone-cold classic is the iced berries dessert with yoghurt sorbet and white chocolate sauce. These are long-standing staples served with an "if-it-ain't-broke-don't-fix-it" consistency that is deeply comforting.
A Wine List That Celebrates English Excellence
While the food menu honours tradition, the wine list has evolved thoughtfully. Grand Champagnes from Dom Perignon to Krug and Louis Roederer Cristal are present, but it is heartening to see English wine claiming an increasingly prominent place. The clear star is Nyetimber, an established and enduring brand like The Ivy itself, with a history referenced in the Domesday Book.
Nyetimber's winemaker, Cherie Spriggs, made history in 2018 as the first non-champagne winemaker to win the International Wine Challenge's 'Best Sparkling Winemaker' award. The brand's Blanc de Blancs later became the first non-champagne to win the Champion Sparkling Wine Trophy. Magnums and jeroboams of Nyetimber decorate the bar, signalling this is a venue where English excellence is celebrated. The list also offers discoveries like Greece's Xinomavro and silky Australian Chardonnay from Margaret River.
Since the 1920s, The Ivy has hosted celebrities and royalty. Under the stewardship of hospitality giants Corbin and King in the 1990s, it became the epicentre of London's 'Cool Britannia' era, with Kate Moss, Mick Jagger, Madonna, and Princess Margaret drawing paparazzi to its doors. Inside, however, it remained—and still remains—a sacred, private retreat from the world's prying eyes. It is a living piece of London's social history.
As January encourages austerity, do not be tricked into forgoing much-needed joy. The city's hospitality industry, embodied by institutions like The Ivy, offers a bastion of quality and hope when it is needed most.
