Chocolate Spaghetti: A Valentine's Day Dining Experiment in Soho
What could be more romantic than a meal out in Soho, a bottle of red wine, and a nice bowl of chocolate spaghetti? For many, the answer might be "almost anything," but one London restaurant is betting on this unconventional dish to attract couples this Valentine's Day.
The Controversial Creation
The 'spaghetti bucatini' at 27 Old Compton Street is being marketed not as a dessert but as a main course. The dish features thick strands of pasta generously coated with a rich chocolate and mascarpone sauce, infused with chili and garnished with fresh basil. This unusual combination has sparked curiosity and skepticism among diners and food critics alike.
It's not uncommon for chefs to introduce bizarre menu items to generate publicity—think gold leaf burgers or oyster-flavored ice cream. However, 27 Old Compton Street is a reputable restaurant, known as a rare spot in Soho where you can dine late without a reservation. This credibility prompted a closer examination of their chocolate pasta offering.
The Theory Behind the Dish
The key to making this dish potentially palatable lies in chocolate's versatility. Chocolate is not inherently sweet and is used in various savory dishes worldwide, such as Mexican mole and chili con carne. Therefore, it's not entirely far-fetched to imagine chocolate pasta could be enjoyable.
Nima Safaei, owner and executive chef of the restaurant, explained the inspiration behind the creation. "Valentine's Day is about going all in," he said. "We wanted to create something that makes people smile the moment it arrives at the table, but also tastes incredible. Chocolate bucatini does exactly that."
The Reality of the Experience
Despite the theoretical appeal, the actual dining experience tells a different story. Upon bringing a forkful of the brown pasta to the mouth, it becomes clear that this dish occupies a troubling liminal space. It's too sweet to function as a satisfying main course yet not sweet enough to qualify as a proper dessert.
The combination of earthy chocolate sauce and dense pasta ribbons sends flashing signals to the brain to stop eating. Even for those who are rarely squeamish, the texture and flavor profile prove challenging. The unpalatability, however, might be beside the point—the chocolate bucatini serves primarily as a novelty to draw couples through the door on Valentine's Day.
Final Verdict
If you avoid the chocolate spaghetti, you'll likely have a pleasant dining experience at 27 Old Compton Street. The restaurant remains a solid choice for late-night meals in Soho. But for those adventurous enough to try the Valentine's Day special, be prepared for a culinary experiment that may not live up to its sweet promises.
Ultimately, this dish highlights how restaurants use creative—and sometimes controversial—menu items to capture attention during peak dining seasons. Whether it succeeds as a meal is debatable, but it certainly succeeds as a conversation starter.
