DakaDaka Brings Georgian Flair to London's Heddon Street
DakaDaka, a vibrant new restaurant celebrating Georgian cuisine, has opened on Heddon Street in London's West End. This location has long been associated with lively nightlife, from the 1990s club scene to more recent upscale eateries like Sabor and Heddon Street Kitchen. DakaDaka embraces this heritage with a rowdy, energetic vibe, though it positions itself as a dining destination rather than a nightclub.
Atmosphere and Ambiance
The restaurant features brick walls painted pitch-black, creating a dark, candle-lit setting reminiscent of a late-night lock-in on a Tbilisi back street. Decor includes pottery, folklore items, and blackboards, while Georgian dance music plays loudly throughout the meal. This atmosphere appeals to those seeking a lively experience where conversation takes a back seat to the immersive environment.
Seating options include tables in the heart of the action or a sit-up counter overlooking the open kitchen. Patrons are advised to dress in removable layers due to the proximity to the open fire used for "live fire cooking," a trend in modern hospitality that adds to the theatrical dining experience.
Menu Highlights and Staff Excellence
DakaDaka's menu showcases traditional Georgian dishes such as badrijani (grilled aubergines), imeruli (cheese-filled flatbread), and kababi (lamb skewers). The floor staff, described as twinkly-humored and matriarchal, provide exceptional service, explaining dishes like lobio (kidney bean hummus) and khinkali (dumplings) in detail. They also promote Georgian natural wines, with 100 options available by the glass, including the feisty 2021 Kakheti and a Georgian twist on the vesper martini.
Cooking Performance: Highs and Lows
During a Saturday night visit, the cooking exhibited both strengths and weaknesses. The open kitchen, while chaotic and visible, contributed to the energetic atmosphere. Starters like corn and millet crisps with walnut and coriander dips were punchy and flavorful. Grilled aubergines with walnut and pomegranate were soft, sweet, and delightful.
However, some dishes fell short. The Ogleshield-stuffed cheese flatbread tasted similar to a stuffed-crust Domino's pizza, lacking uniqueness. Lamb kababi skewers were forgettable and slightly overdone. A grape salad, though generous with ingredients, failed to impress.
Major Disappointments
A whole sea bream cooked on the live fire was a significant letdown. It took an excessively long time to arrive, with chefs appearing puzzled during preparation. The final dish was mushy with floppy skin, possibly due to frostbite in storage, according to a chef friend's speculation.
For dessert, red-wine ice-cream made with saperavi grapes was served with tough ponchiki (doughnuts). The ice-cream was described as very vinegary and salty, with minimal wine flavor, finished with balsamic and salt as confirmed by the staff.
Overall Impression
DakaDaka is an unforgettable experience, ideal for Georgians feeling homesick or anyone seeking a loud, energetic setting to enjoy dumplings and wine. However, the inconsistent cooking leaves some diners on the fence. The restaurant operates Tuesday to Saturday, with lunch and dinner services, and prices start at around £75 per person for à la carte meals, plus drinks and service.
