London Bakers Admire Alex Dilling's Michelin-Starred Patisserie-Style Cuisine
At Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal, dinner service presents plates that could easily be mistaken for exquisite patisserie creations rather than savory dishes. The food is meticulously glazed and shiny, often adorned with decorative multicolored floral touches that elevate its visual appeal. This distinctive approach has helped the restaurant maintain its two Michelin stars, positioning it among only seven establishments in London with such recognition.
Technical Precision and Artistic Plating
The hunter's chicken dish exemplifies Dilling's innovative style, inspired by the shape of an Easter egg and resembling a fancy chocolate treat from Fortnum & Mason. However, this is far from dessert: the chicken is steamed at a low temperature for approximately 35 minutes to achieve a succulent texture. It is then layered with mushroom mousse, a chicken mousseline made from chicken breast, cream, and egg white, and a final coating of foie gras, finished with colorful, Instagram-worthy embellishments.
Local bakers express admiration for Dilling's plating techniques, noting that it reminds them of sophisticated French patisserie. At a glance, the chicken could pass for a croissant, showcasing dishes that are both beautiful and approachable. Dilling, described as a large-framed individual, assembles these components with apparent ease, avoiding excessive fussiness in presentation.
Signature Dishes and Dining Experience
The caviar dish with avocado, Devon crab, and dill shimmers like jewelry, thanks to a sprinkling of edible flowers. Despite its elegant appearance, it is meant to be eaten "like a sandwich," with the caviar and fish generously spread on buttery bread. The accompanying bread itself is a showstopper, featuring folds of pistachio dough baked to create intricate wave-like patterns.
Another standout is the Iberico pork shoulder, foie gras, and pistachio dish, which arrives resembling a savory fondant fancy, defiantly rich and flavorful. While the hunter's chicken is exclusively part of the £215 set menu, Dilling has made the mold available for £40 on Mould Brothers, allowing home cooks to recreate the dish at a fraction of the cost.
Ambiance and Influence
The restaurant's ambiance sets it apart from many luxury venues with cream furnishings. With only 34 seats, it maintains a genteel atmosphere even when fully occupied. Located on the first floor of the Café Royal Hotel at the corner of Regent Street and Piccadilly Circus, it offers a hedonistic contrast to the nearby tourist-heavy area, with views of the iconic lights.
In the realm of trendy bakeries, establishments like Le Café in the Burlington Arcade by Nicolas Rouzaud and Claridge's Bakery are considered gold standards, blending traditional techniques with modern playfulness. These bakeries, which experiment with items like Wagon Wheel bakes and Frenchified Victoria sponges, look up to Dilling as a pioneer. If bakers are the new cool kids in London's culinary scene, Dilling was already a step ahead, continuously striving for that elusive third Michelin star.
Alex Dilling's tasting menu is priced at £215 for dinner, with details available on alexdilling.com. The restaurant's commitment to hi-tech recovery methods further underscores its innovative approach in the competitive London dining landscape.
