Teal, the latest restaurant to occupy the intimate space at 52 Wilton Way in London Fields, has earned a 4 out of 5 star review from Time Out's Leonie Cooper. Chef Sally Abe, known for her tenure at the game-focused Harewood Arms, delivers a progressive interpretation of historic British country garden cookery that Cooper describes as 'psychedelic Victoriana'.
From Pidgin to Sesta to Teal
The venue previously housed Michelin-starred Pidgin and the acclaimed Sesta, but Teal presents a distinctly different atmosphere. The shoebox-sized space now feels like a parochial Cotswolds bistro, with soft green walls, upholstered bar stools, and marble-topped tables. Cooper notes the dining room possesses a 'gentle energy' that contrasts with its east London surroundings.
A menu rooted in tradition with a modern twist
The meal begins with 'savouries'—small Victorian-inspired snacks. Standouts include the Locket's savoury, described as a 'pissed-up Edwardian gentleman's midnight feast' featuring pears and stilton on toast, and a brawn scotch egg that pairs well with piquant sauce. Devils on horseback offer a squishy chicken parfait stuffed inside a prune.
Starters continue the pastoral theme. A devilled crab tart arrives nearly hidden under a blanket of luminous herbs, evoking a Christina Rossetti poem. However, Cooper found the 'knife and fork bacon' slightly confusing—four slices of stark meat topped with what appears to be a giant Frazzle.
Mains that deliver whimsy and flavor
The mains restore the meal's magical quality. English asparagus spears accompany plump ricotta dumplings, while beef sirloin and short rib sit atop a funky wild garlic sauce and sweet onion. Cooper declares the food 'all rather magical.'
Dessert includes a diminutive scoop of vanilla ice cream—described as 'east London's smallest'—and a homemade raspberry marshmallow Tunnocks-style tea cake with Earl Grey custard. Cooper likens the experience to 'eating in the V&A.'
Practical details and reviewer tips
The restaurant offers a countryside bistro vibe in hipster Hackney, with an extensive wine list and classic cocktails. Cooper advises diners not to skip the savouries, as they are small enough to enjoy alongside a starter. Teal is located at 52 Wilton Way, London Fields, London E8 1BG.
