Renowned chef Rick Stein may be a global culinary figure, but he has just a single London outpost. Our reporter, Christopher Sharp, visited the Thames-side venue in Barnes to sample its festive offering and see if the food justifies the reputation.
A Thames-Side Setting with Homely Ambience
The restaurant, situated on the banks of the River Thames in Mortlake, Barnes, offers a warm and inviting atmosphere. During the December visit, the interior was bathed in soft lighting and featured live piano music.
Securing a window table provided a stunning view of the river, even after dark, with rowers training on the water. It was described as the best view from any restaurant reviewed this year, and such tables are likely highly coveted in the summer months.
Putting the Famous Fish to the Test
Given Rick Stein's seafood fame, opting for fish from the festive set menu was essential. The chosen main was the braised fillet of haddock with chestnut mushrooms and roasted chestnuts.
The festive menu is priced at £44 for two courses and £50 for three courses. The reviewer's companion, who ordered from the standard menu, actually ended up with a lower bill.
The haddock itself was plentiful and well-seasoned. The typically plain fish was successfully elevated by the earthy mushrooms, sweet chestnuts, and a flavoursome sauce. It was paired with a glass of Rick Stein White Burgundy (£15.70 for 175ml), noted for its robust body and sweet aftertaste that balanced the dish.
A Dessert That Missed the Mark
For pudding, the traditional Yule Log was selected. While substantial in size, it was found lacking. The dessert was criticised for being stodgy, lacking cream, and tasting more like a supermarket product than a chef-crafted treat.
It was deemed edible but disappointing. A pot of strong mint tea (£3.75) helped cut through the heaviness of the pudding.
The Final Verdict: Homely, Relaxed, Premium
Overall, Rick Stein's sole London venue received a commendable review. The atmosphere was warm, the service was sharp and attentive (barring minor confusion over dessert), and the crucial fish course lived up to the Stein name.
Based on the meal sampled, the fish dish was satisfactory while the Yule log fell short. The experience was summarised in three words: homely, relaxed, and premium.
The total bill for the two-course set menu, wine, tea, and the 12.5% discretionary service charge (£7.94) came to £71.39. The conclusion was that the restaurant is worth a revisit and would make an excellent spot for a dinner for two.
