For a genuine slice of Italian life, far from the madding tourist crowds, look beyond Rome and Venice. Tucked away in the northern region of Emilia-Romagna lies the enchanting city of Cesena, a destination that offers profound authenticity and charm, with return flights available from the UK for as little as £32.
A Personal Love Letter to an Italian Secret
Having spent every summer in Italy since childhood, I've developed a deep connection to its culture. Now 27, that magic remains undimmed. My stepmother is Italian, and from the age of two, I've been immersed in the language, cuisine, and way of life. While many Brits flock to Bologna or Florence, my heart belongs to Cesena. Overshadowed by its famous neighbour Bologna – the birthplace of ragù – Cesena retains an unspoiled character that feels both authentic and deeply charming, whether under a blazing summer sun or a blanket of winter snow. In 2025 alone, I was fortunate to visit three times.
A Food Lover's Authentic Paradise
Cesena's streets hum with local life, not tourist chatter; you'll rarely hear English spoken. The primary draw is undoubtedly the food, which is distinct within Italy. Emilia-Romagna is a legendary foodie region, celebrated for superb, simple dishes that maximise local produce from the nearby hills and coast.
Must-try specialities include mortadella (the original ham that inspired 'baloney'), world-famous Parmesan cheese, and piadina flatbread, ideally filled with squacquerone – a soft, fresh cheese. Wine enthusiasts must sample a glass of Sangiovese, so integral to local culture that in the Romagnol dialect it's simply called 'e be' ('the drink').
The region's history of ingenuity is tasted in dishes like Strozzapreti ('priest stranglers') pasta, traditionally made from just durum wheat, semolina, and water. Find it on virtually every Cesena menu, with top recommendations being Tre Papi, Osteria Michiletta, or the historically named La Stalla ('the stable').
For dessert, the legendary Babbi Café, founded in 1952, is essential for its chocolate spreads, wafers, and year-round ice cream. Don't leave without their pistachio spread. At Christmas, join the queues at Pasticceria Romagna for their famed Tronco di Natale (chocolate log) or a sensational, creamy bombolone doughnut with a morning coffee.
The Historic City of Books and Popes
Beyond the table, Cesena boasts a rich heritage. Referenced by Dante in 1321, it is home to the Malatestian Library, the world's oldest public library. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2005, it has survived centuries, including the Napoleonic Wars, losing only six books from its collection of 400,000 volumes.
Deeply woven into Catholic history, Cesena is also known as the City of Three Popes, having produced Pope Pius VI and Pope Pius VII, with Pope Benedict XIII serving as bishop there before his 1724 election.
How to Get There from the UK
Cesena's lack of an airport preserves its charm. The best route from London is to fly to Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (approx. 2h 20m). Ryanair offers return flights from Stansted for as little as £32 in January, while British Airways flies from Heathrow from around £118.
In summer, you can also fly to Federico Fellini Airport near Rimini with easyJet or Ryanair; a return in mid-July currently costs between £115 and £136. From Bologna, a train to Cesena takes just over an hour; from Rimini, it's a mere 15-minute journey.
This slight extra travel effort is a small price for the reward: an authentic Italian experience, a world away from crowded hotspots, where the true rhythm and flavour of Emilia-Romagna can be savoured in full.
