In the competitive landscape of London's fine dining scene, a handful of establishments command global attention and equally staggering price tags. Time Out's Food & Drink Editor, Leonie Cooper, recently took on the task of evaluating whether the celebrated tasting menu at two-Michelin-starred Ikoyi, priced at a substantial £380 per person, represents a worthy culinary investment or an extravagant splurge.
The Pedigree of a World-Class Venue
Ikoyi's reputation precedes it. The restaurant, which first opened in St James's in 2017, rapidly earned its first Michelin star in 2018 and secured its second in 2022. That same year, it relocated to its current, sleek premises in the 180 Strand building in Temple. Its global acclaim was cemented by its position at 15th place in the prestigious World's 50 Best Restaurants list last year, making it one of only two London venues to feature.
Such accolades come at a cost. The restaurant's '14-ish' course tasting menu firmly places it among the capital's most expensive set meals, surpassed only by Sushi Kanesaka in Mayfair at £420 per head. In an era where a casual dinner in Soho can easily exceed £100, Cooper's four-hour gastronomic journey from 6pm to 10pm aimed to determine if Ikoyi delivers value commensurate with its world-ranking status.
A Symphony of Spice and Technique
At the helm is head chef Jeremy Chan, whose philosophy centres on 'spice-based cuisine'. This is not mere seasoning but the foundational element of complex, meticulously crafted dishes. The experience is characterised by an unwavering commitment to technique, with some preparations involving processes that span several days, and the use of exceptionally rare ingredients.
The menu is a parade of inventive dishes where presentation matches profound flavour. One standout was a guinea fowl suya encased in a crispy caramelised rice shell, accompanied by a spiced grape gel and freshly grated black truffle. Another highlight was a deeply aromatic pepper broth, born from an 18-hour infusion of caramelised chicken wings, poured over tender pork jowl brushed with garlic soy and anchovy butter. The dish was finished tableside with oil from the ultra-rare cubeb peppercorn from Sierra Leone.
Remarkably, in a marathon tasting menu, Cooper noted there were no weak links. A slice of dry-aged bluefin tuna was elevated by its pairing with a pistachio pudding, pomegranate and chilli broth, and an array of pickled and preserved accompaniments. A smoked celeriac and chanterelle mushroom tart was described as an evocative and textural masterpiece.
The Finale and The Final Verdict
The culinary spectacle continued through to dessert, confirming that no corners are cut at any stage. A mussel and saffron crème caramel, lined with poached razor clam and caviar, was dramatically adorned with a neon pink beetroot reduction and saffron-infused chilli oil. The sweet conclusion featured a peppercorn-infused mikan sorbet with red kiwi and lavender meringue, followed by a composition of white pea ice cream, kumquat and ginger cake, and coffee caramel.
So, is the £380 outlay justified? The review concludes that in the context of contemporary London dining prices and for an experience of this calibre, it is a defensible expense. The combination of world-class cookery, exceptional produce, theatrical presentation, and impeccable service over a lengthy, immersive evening makes a compelling case. For those with the means, Cooper suggests Ikoyi represents one of the most remarkable ways to spend that sum in the city. It is less a simple meal and more a memorable culinary event that lives up to its international reputation.
